‘Why do we celebrate handloom?’, is a question we often ask. In times of mechanisation and powerlooms, isn’t it progress that we must applaud? Truly, technology has made work faster, and the end product cheaper. However, in the bargain, the thousands of families that were once supported by patrons, are fading out. The mechanics of the complex loom, and working it without electricity, is becoming a thing of the past. And one of the 64 arts and crafts of India, is fading to oblivion. The reason we celebrate handloom, is because this craft has the human element in it. When you buy handloom, you support the farmer, the weaver and the society around them. When you celebrate handloom, you celebrate the nation’s unique identity as well as the unique story of each handloom, built by its people. With Andhra Pradesh being home to one of the richest and most vibrant clusters of handloom societies, we take you on a trip through these villages in Andhra Pradesh, to meet these weavers and salute their work.
Fact file: The only Andhra village for Khadi, it has also received the Geographical Indications tag for its unique identity.
Home to the finest and softest Khadi available, the legend goes that Mahatma Gandhi himself visited the village, and showed a liking towards wearing Ponduru Khadi. The feel of this cotton fabric is soft, and it is both handspun and handwoven. In fact, it is so appreciated, that it is exported to other countries and also has many designers in India use it as their base material. Available in a range of pastel and bright colours, many handloom lovers make the trip, specifically to this village in Andhra Pradesh, to procure its saris and material. Along with Khadi sarees in cotton and silk, the dhotis in Khadi are much preferred for the classy look and comfortable feel of the garment. With almost every house having a pit loom, the entire family works together in order to create this beautiful fabric. The weaving of Ponduru handloom and Khadi materials is also done in other villages up to Vizianagaram. Most weavers prepare the cloth to order, and will not sell directly. However, the society and a few weavers do sell running material and a few sarees.
Raji Mavuri, Kanchi Kamakshi Silks
Fact file: Awarded the Geographical Indication tag, Uppada is one of the few villages in Andhra Pradesh that prospers in handloom, thanks to the unique fabrics it creates.
Shopping for buttery silks in pretty pastels is the reason that takes many buyers to the village of Uppada every day. With many stores along the entire street selling this beautiful fabric, prepare to be amazed at the riot of colours, designs and styles available. With a large percentage of the weavers here being women, each sari takes approximately ten days to two months for weaving, depending on the complexity of the design. Those heading here for their wedding sarees, must check out the exquisite designer pieces available. The Jamdani style of weave, which was learned from Bangladesh approximately 300 years ago, is a must buy. With weavers hailing from neighbouring villages as well, a drive to this destination will showcase many homes and looms busy at work.
Parvathi, Sankalpa Art Village
Distance: 10 km from Vijayawada
Fact file: This village is also famous for its temples. The Panakala Narasimhaswami Temple is much visited, and legend says that the Lord accepts only half of the offering of panakam (jaggery water) made here.
From colourful and soft cottons to options in silks, for saris, kurtas, and dress materials, Mangalgiri is a destination that attracts visitors to Vijayawada. The short 10 km detour, is well worth the ride, as the narrow lane of Mangalagiri, in Andhra Pradesh, beckons with many small shops that sell the bright and pastel coloured handloom. While traditional Mangalagiri material sported the unmistakable gold borders, today there are many other options available too. The yarn undergoes a month-long process of being dyed, dried, and prepared for the loom. Once on the loom, it takes a day to be created. With a wide variety of colours and combinations to choose from, the high quality, exquisite feel, and easy maintenance make these irresistible for the buyer.
Fact file: Once an independent princely state, Venkatagiri is famous for its historical monuments, well-maintained royal palace, temples, and fort. This is also home to the Indian Institute of Handloom Technology.
Once famed for their real-silver with real-gold borders, these saris are often treasured possessions passed down from grandmothers to granddaughters.
Those seeking classy, airy, and light handwoven saris with elaborate zari borders, often find their answer in Venkatagiri. Soft and durable, this village is famed for Jamdani style saris, the technique of which was imported from Bangladesh. Pure cotton saris, cotton and silk mix, and pure silk saris are the range of options available here. The 18th Indian sari to be awarded Geographical Indication (GI), Venkatagiri saris were once woven for royalties who patronised a small cluster of weavers. Traditional motifs of swans, peacocks, parrots, and geometrical designs can be seen here.
Ammaji Rayudu, CCAP, Jt. Secretary
Fact file: People from the older generations recollect how saris here would cost as less as Rs. 10 in the ‘60s but aren’t inexpensive anymore
The softest of cotton saris, in a range of colours, come from this village. With many homes seen with bright colored threads strung on traditional handlooms, Narayanapuram has approximately 50 maggams (looms), which are used in rotation. Their handloom is dedicated to preparing Bobbili saris, their customers comprise of the sahukars of Bobbili in Andhra Pradesh. With no functional society, produce directly goes to the businessmen in Bobbili. On average, eight saris are prepared per week, with the money and threads provided by Bobbili saahukars. The Bobbili saris they make are however famed for their softness and low cost. The pure cotton saris though not as inexpensive anymore, are still economically priced.
Distance: 200 km from Vizag
Fact file: 800 weavers and 400 looms approximately constitute the Angara society. These materials can be purchased either from the village or from Dwarapudi, where the retail center is located.
Winding lanes through the scenic district of East Godavari, can take you to the quiet village of Angara. This is where most of the so-called Uppada cotton saris are woven. From colourful jacquards to buta saris, dress materials, cottons, kuppadam silks and much more are available here. This community presents its work with immense pride and has also received many awards. Constantly looking to innovate, they are creating slab yarn, gine cottons, and other saris. With many neighbouring villages also supplying to Angara, this place is ideal for purchasing kurta material and soft cotton handloom towels too.
1. Buy handloom only at the societies, or directly from weavers. This ensures that the benefit goes directly to the makers. This also ensures that you get handloom material only.
2. When shopping for a special occasion like a wedding, pick up a handloom trail and shop at the clusters along the way.
3. Most of the societies are savvy too, and once you meet them personally, you can next shop with them via Whatsapp pictures and online money transfers.
4. Support the lesser-known crafts, as it is here that the weavers struggle the most.
5. Encourage your children to visit such clusters. The shift in mindset for the next generation begins with you.
This post was last modified on 03/03/2021 3:11 pm
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